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Auteur Sujet: Mansour Memarian au guide Michelin au Palazzo Versace de Dubaï  (Lu 137 fois)

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Mansour Memarian au guide Michelin au Palazzo Versace de Dubaï
« le: janvier 21, 2018, 04:41:05 pm »
Table Talk: Iranian food gets the Michelin treatment

Middle Eastern food has been overdue a transformation, and the Palazzo Versace Dubai’s Mansour Memarian is leading the charge

By Keith J Fernandez, Group Editor - Commercial Publishing

January 20, 2018

The perfect tahdig is a bit of culinary sorcery. No matter how many times you’ve attempted it, you can never be quite sure you’ll achieve the buttery crunchiness that makes this slice of carbohydrate heaven the apogee of Persian food.

Essentially the pan-fried crust at the bottom of a pot of rice, tahdig at its best is a caramelised, golden disk that entire families are known to fight over. Although originally simply burnt rice, this Persian soul food, as cookbook author Louisa Shafia calls it, may also be made with bread or potatoes in a multi-step process that can involve sautéing and steaming. Its trickiness means hotel chefs and home cooks alike pride themselves on their ability to get it right.

So it goes without saying that the litmus taste test for Dubai’s Iranian community at the latest incarnation of the Palazzo Versace’s Enigma restaurant, which has previously been home to its fair share of Michelin-starred imports including Quique da Costa and Björn Frantzén, will be its tahdig. And Mansour Memarian, the hotel’s executive chef, is taking no chances.

“Tahdig is very important in Iranian cuisine,” he tells Gulf News tabloid!. “So we make ours separately, over one-and-a-half days.” It’s a multi-step process that involves an oven, a salamander and stove-top cooking. “We use the Italian technique of cooking risotto to convert it to a Persian tahdig, so it’s crisp and soft at the same time.”


"Affirmons notre fierté d'être Français (et je rajouterais Iraniens), car on ne bâtit rien sur l'auto-dénigrement"